Semi-Permanent Makeup Glossary
From powder brows to lip blush to SMP — the confusing semi-permanent terms, sorted at a glance.
When you search around, tattoo, semi-permanent, blush, and SMP all blur together and it's easy to get lost. We've gathered the meanings of the most common terms and the related guidance for each. If you'd like to see the differences explained in more depth as a story, read the article below as well.
Basic concepts
- Semi-permanent makeup= PMU · semi-permanent
A cosmetic treatment that lays a thin layer of natural, skin-toned color near the boundary of the epidermis and dermis. Unlike a tattoo, which deposits pigment deep in the dermis, it softens gradually over time and may leave some residual color rather than disappearing completely.
- Tattoo
A procedure that deposits pigment deep into the dermis to set strong color in a single session and keep it for the long term. With its bold color and difficulty to correct, it stands apart from semi-permanent makeup, which places natural color shallowly and is refined with a retouch.
Related guidancePMU vs tattoo terms explained- Fading= softening
The way PMU color gradually softens over time. Longevity varies by individual skin type, lifestyle, and aftercare.
Related guidanceLongevity guide- Pigment= pigment
The color particles used in PMU. Because they fade and the tone can shift over time, it's important to choose with the faded color in mind, not just the fresh one.
- Retention
How well the applied color settles into the skin. Even with the same procedure, how well it settles varies with your skin type, lifestyle, and aftercare.
- Color result
The actual color that emerges not right after the procedure but once the skin has healed (about a month later). Since it can differ from the bold color seen immediately after, the final color is judged after healing.
Treatments by area
- Powder brows= soft shading · eyebrow tattoo
Eyebrow PMU that builds up tiny dots into a soft, makeup-like gradient. It tends to settle relatively reliably on oily and combination skin, where crisp strokes are prone to blurring.
- Microblading= natural hair-stroke brows · microblading
An eyebrow PMU technique that uses a fine, blade-like tool to draw individual strokes one at a time, mimicking real hairs. It differs in finish from shading (powder), which gives a makeup-like, soft look.
- Combo brows
An eyebrow PMU finish that combines microblading, which draws strokes, with shading (powder), which builds up dots — bringing out dimension and a natural look at the same time.
- Lip blush= lip tattoo · lip PMU
Lip PMU that deposits color thinly — deeper at the center, lighter toward the edges — as if staining the lips, for a soft, tint-like natural flush.
- Full lips
A lip PMU finish that fills the entire lip with solid, lipstick-like color for a clear, defined shade. It stands apart from lip blush, which carries a gradient from the center outward.
Related guidanceLip tattoo guide- Neutralizing
When the natural lip color is dark or an existing color has shifted, this is the step of first balancing the darkness with a neutralizing pigment to create a brighter base before building the desired color. It may take several sessions.
- Eyeliner PMU= eyeliner tattoo
PMU that places color on the skin outside the lash line to define the eyes. As a rule, the inner rim of the eyelid (the waterline) is left untreated to protect the eye.
- SMP= scalp tattoo · scalp PMU
PMU that places tiny dots resembling hair follicles onto the scalp to make hair look fuller or to camouflage scars. Rather than drawing individual hair strands, it creates an optical illusion through the density of the dots.
- Hairline PMU
PMU that adds soft shading along the boundary between the forehead and the hairline to naturally refine the line. It builds the impression of hair through the density of the dots.
- Waterline= mucosa
The mucous-membrane area on the inner rim of the eyelid. Because it's directly tied to eye health, it's left untreated even in eyeliner PMU.
The procedure process
- Retouch= touch-up
A second session done around weeks 6–8 after the first treatment, once the color has anchored, to reinforce the color and refine the design. PMU color is usually completed over two passes — the first treatment and the retouch.
- Design= mapping
The pre-procedure step of setting the shape, position, and color of the brows, lips, and so on to suit your facial balance. Clients traveling from afar can settle the design in advance through a consultation before arriving.
- Patch test
A preliminary test to check in advance for an allergic reaction to the pigment and the like. It's recommended before the procedure if your skin is sensitive or you have a history of allergies.
Related guidancePre-procedure guide- Hygiene= disposable · disinfection
Keeping the tools clean to prevent infection. Disposable needles, disinfection, and a one-set-of-tools-per-person principle are the basics of a safe procedure.
Related guidanceHow to choose a good studio
Healing & aftercare
- Lymph fluid
The clear tissue fluid that seeps from the treated area in the early days of healing after a procedure. It's a normal part of the healing process, managed by gently dabbing it away with a disinfected cotton swab.
- Swelling & redness
The temporary puffiness and redness that can appear after a procedure. It usually subsides within a few days; if it lingers or worsens, you'll need care at a medical institution.
Related guidanceRecovery & healing guide- Scab= crust
A thin scab that forms over the treated area during healing after a procedure. Letting it fall off naturally instead of forcing it off helps the color set.
Correction & removal
- Cover-up
Work that conceals existing PMU or leftover residual color. The key isn't simply painting over it, but designing which color to lay down first to neutralize what's underneath.
- Color correction
Work that fixes PMU color that has shifted. Color that has turned red or orange is relatively easy to cover, while color that has gone gray or bluish calls for a more careful neutralizing plan.
- Removal
The work of taking out PMU that was done poorly or has aged. The color is lifted using saline and the like, while medical procedures such as laser removal fall under a medical institution's purview.
Safety & precautions
- Contraindications
Conditions under which a procedure should be postponed or avoided, such as pregnancy, certain illnesses, or medications you're taking. For your safety, these are always confirmed in the pre-procedure consultation.
Related guidancePre-procedure guide
Results and longevity vary by individual skin type and aftercare, and possible side effects include pigment allergy, infection, and temporary swelling or redness. CYAN is a semi-permanent makeup studio, not a medical institution, and does not provide diagnosis or medical treatment. Specific details are explained during your pre-treatment consultation.